Welcome hikers! If you’re looking for an adventure steeped in history, spirituality and natural beauty, the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan should be high on your list. Why? This ancient pilgrimage route which winds through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula is a historic journey that is as rewarding for the history nerd in you as it is for your eyes.
Sounds like I exaggerated? It’s actually a World Heritage Site that’s been traversed by emperors, samurai and peasants alike for over a thousand years. When you step on this trail, you’re stepping through a rich history.
A brief history
The Kumano Kodo trails were originally used for 2 reasons. The first reason was that the trails connected the 2 ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto. The second reason was for pilgrims travelling to worship at three sacred shrines known collectively as the Kumano Sanzan which consisted of:
- Hongu Taisha
- Hayatama Taisha
- Nachi Taisha
Over time, the routes became known for their spiritual significance over their strategic significance as retired emperors and aristocrats began making pilgrimages to Kumano, seeking spiritual solace and purification. This also led to many aristocrats and members of the imperial court to undertake the journey for the sole reason of showing their grit and earning social status as the pilgrimage was known to be difficult. It was during this time that these routes earned the moniker “Kumano Kodo,” translating to “Old Roads of Kumano.”
The network of pathways weaves through the dense forests, misty valleys, and along rivers of Wakayama. In 2004, UNESCO recognized these trails as part of its World Heritage listing under “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”1
Choosing your path
One of the special things about the Kumano Kodo trail is its 6 distinct paths, 4 of which are the main routes depending on your interests and fitness level. It’s like choosing your difficulty level at a ski resort really, there’s no wrong answer as long as you picked it for the right reasons.
As you can see from the map, there are a confusing amount of possible routes you can take but here are the 4 main routes that most visitors will be taking.
- Nakahechi Route: This is perhaps the most popular path among modern-day pilgrims (yes you too hikers 😉). It stretches approximately 24 miles (38 kilometers) from Takijiri-oji to Hongu Taisha Shrine. The trail has well-maintained paths with plenty of historical sites along the way. It’s also known as the imperial route because it used to be favored by nobility.
- Kohechi Route: If you’re up for a more challenging trek, this might be your pick. The Kohechi route spans about 43 miles (70 kilometers), traversing steep mountain ranges between Mt. Koya and Hongu Taisha Shrine.
- Ohechi Route: For those who love coastal views, Ohechi offers around 52 miles (84 kilometers) of paths skirting along beaches and seaside cliffs. Careful though, this route runs through the freeway and can be tricky to walk through.
- Iseji Route: A longer coastal route over roughly 100 miles (160 kilometers), this path gives hikers a mix of forest trails and old stone-paved roads. This route connects Ise Jingu (Grand Shrine) with the Kumano Sanzan and is part of the Saikogu Pilgrimage.
Along with these, you can of course choose to pick any of the side-trails should you wish to view the ocean or are a completionist at heart. But whichever route you choose will provide a unique and rich experience of Japan’s history and natural beauty. This is different from most trails where you’ll want to do them all or do the most difficult one you can challenge yourself with.
When to go
The ideal time to hike the Kumano Kodo is during spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November). These seasons offer cooler temperatures and vibrant foliage, which is the more picturesque look without boiling alive. Summer would be too hot hot and humid for most, while winter would obviously be a bit too cold and snowy for a pleasant hike.
Spring (March-May) offers blooming cherry blossoms while fall (September-November) is cooler with vibrant autumn foliage. Both seasons provide mild temperatures perfect for long hikes ranging between lows of around 45°F (7°C) to highs close to 70°F (21°C). Summer has warmer weather but also brings humidity and occasional rain showers; expect temperatures between 68°F to 86°F or so (20°C to 30°C). Winter months obviously have cooler climates averaging between freezing point up till roughly mid-40s Fahrenheit range (~7°C) so don’t go unless you want a challenge.
All this to say, go in spring or fall when it’s nice and you can enjoy the view instead of sweating or freezing.
Preparing for your journey
Whether you choose to take a long trip to experience it all or a short hike to take some IG pics, preparation remains key as this is a long and arduous trek regardless of the trail you pick.
Please make sure you prepare or look over these things before heading out:
- Footwear & Apparel: Comfortable hiking boots or shoes are essential so you don’t slip and twist your ankle but you should also have warm but breathable clothes because you’ll get hot and sweaty before you get tired. Make sure you pack a few Band-Aids in case of chafing.
- Maps/GPS: Make sure you have offline maps saved or a printout because reception is not perfect and it would suck to take an hour long detour. Alltrails is a great app for this but offline Google Maps or Organic Maps are perfectly fine.
- Accommodations: Make sure you book your accommodations ahead of time. You don’t want to find out that everything is booked out when you’re tired and hungry. A ryokan (traditional inn) or minshuku (family-run guesthouse) would be ideal to immerse yourself with the theme of this hike. Also make sure you have a rough plan for what foods you’ll have along the way. Here’s some ideas by Shizuka Anderson from By Food.
- Hydration Snacks: Make sure to pack adequate water and protein bars along with a bag to store your trash in. You don’t wanna find out your backpack’s dirty because some sauce spilled all over.
- Respectful Etiquette: Pretend you’re a Heian period noble and follow the local customs and traditions while you’re on the trail. Bow at shrines and torii gates before entering, keep conversations quiet, and take your litter with you (in the bag I mentioned earlier). Remember that you are walking paths trodden by countless pilgrims over centuries and it would be nice for them to be as beautiful for centuries more.
Of course, use common sense and add anything you feel you may need… Just not too much, remember that small things weigh you down a lot over long distances.
Closing thoughts
What’s special about the Kumano Kodo trail isn’t that it’s an impressive hike with beautiful sights. Many other trails around Japan have those, why would you go here? What’s special about it is the history behind the thousands of men and women that have trekked it from commoner to emperors along with the remote traditional temples that contrast with the untouched natural beauty of Wakayama.
When you go on this trail, you’re going on a pilgrimage that goes back a thousand years yet isn’t known by most of the world.
If you’re a hiker or history buff, be sure to make time to visit the Kumano Kodo trail and recharge at some traditional ryokans. Who knows when you’ll get to experience a trail with this much history while resting your soul again? Life gets so busy all the time.
Happy Trails!
FAQ
How long does it take to hike Kumano Kodo?
There’s no set time as you can pick which trails you would like to experience but if you wish to experience most of Kumano Kodo, you should set aside 3-4 days.
Is Kumano Kodo difficult?
It depends on whether or not you have experience hiking but the trail is very doable if you like the idea of hiking over 3 separate days. It’s not so strenuous but it is a long trail.
Is Kumano Kodo worth visiting?
If you like hiking, it’s a must-visit sight on a Japan trip. If you don’t, it depends on how much a millennia-old pilgrimage trail with beautiful temples matter for your trip.
What is the easiest Kumano Kodo route?
The easiest route is the Nakahechi Route aka the Central Route. The roads are better maintained, there’s fewer inclines and there are English signs everywhere with bus stops along the route.
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